hope this may help you,
Safe lifting and supporting the right side of the vehicle disconnect the battery remove the mounting bolts to remove the son of the starter solenoid housing slide.
The removal procedure to start is probably different for different Regal "sub-models" and the 3.1L to 3.8L. ... In my 1995 Regal Custom 3.8, you must exit through the top boot (between the radiator and engine).
So I did, and seems to work well in a couple of test runs ....
Disconnect the battery terminals and remove them good, and make sure they do not touch until the battery is fully ready au working on the machine! There are two AC lines in front of the starter so be careful around them, when you remove the starter. In any case, do not mess up the lines of AC coolant, freon stroke is a very high pressure to the tires of the car, and comes out the cold - so it can explode and burn, you bad, or worse, I think.
Be careful of AC lines, eye protection, and to make sure that the battery is disconnected. Use a sturdy tripod in the correct position of the vehicle. (I use the hydraulic jack, position it as a backup, and the scissor jack (second backup) on the guide, is designed to fit, user manual
I did not interrupt the lines of oil as the manual trans Haynes manual says, but it would have made a little easier to pull the starter. You can get the oil lost while removing the trans fluid lines into a clean container and put it right back in when your done. If you interrupt the trans-European lines, just plug a golf tee or something similar at the end of rubber hose trans fluid.
Now you need to find starter, is part of the driver in front of the engine, is one of the smaller purple wire goes to the solenoid and placed a string of big orange (actually, two orange wires to a terminal) and one of the thread and Black goes to the main power post-.---
There is a piece of plastic that covers the starter end when he goes into the steering wheel hub. He called a flywheel inspection cover. In my car, the piece held by a 10mm screw in front of the plastic part. You should take this off to the screw starter.
This is the part where you can really surprised bad voltage DC-Do not give your muscles time to let go Because now goes directly to the battery input amperage does not change and it is! If the battery is disconnected, where it belongs, the son of the starter switch (one of mine was a 7 mm nut and the terminal larger than the size cuz I do not remember using a regular key).
In a way, disconnect the plug that goes into the oil pan if you can understand how, if not, what I did was simply cut the cable in a place where I could go to extremes to splice it back together later. There is still a child is at the top of the starter to the engine switches off ..
There are 2 bolts holding the starter on: one, you can access from one side of the frame piece that goes under the front of the engine .... and a U-bolt can be accessed from the other side of the room frame. (Mine was 15mm bolt heads ).... starter is not ready to go out again at that time.
You have to take the air box (one screw next to the battery / disconnect air duct on the engine side of the unloading tion hoseclamp there). ..... Removing the air box will exit the vent on the driver's side. (2 bolts, one on top of the fan bracket and one on the driver's side of the mount fan, fan / bracket slides up the opening at the bottom.) Assume that you can interrupt the cooling lines to Oil trans-axle Haynes manual says but I did not, and it worked well. There may be some son or something in the way I do not remember, but the starter should slide back and then exit the first end gear teeth.